Thoughts
on Anchors and Anchoring
Anchors
Sooner or later, you'll want to anchor
your boat for the night. This may be
because you've planned your trip to arrive at a destination that has neither
docks nor moorings available. Or, you
may have had a tough sail in deteriorating conditions and you need to rest
before going on. There are many other
reasons as well. In any case, you will
want to make sure that your anchor and its related equipment (ground tackle) is ready to use. You (and your crew) really won't enjoy
drifting around a potential anchorage in bad weather and decreasing light,
while you try to find and shackle together your anchoring system.
Your anchoring system includes: your anchor,
a length of chain, the anchor rope, and two shackles to attach everything together. The anchor needs to be sized to your
boat. The following are some suggested
anchor to boat sizes:
|
Anchor Type
|
|
|
|
Boat
|
Length
|
|
|
|
|
|
18'
|
20'
|
22'
|
24'
|
26'
|
28'
|
|
Danforth
|
|
8 lb
|
8 lb
|
8 lb
|
13 lb
|
13 lb
|
13 lb
|
|
Bruce
|
|
11 lb
|
11 lb
|
16.5 lb
|
16.5 lb
|
16.5 lb
|
16.5 lb
|
|
CQR
|
|
25 lb
|
25 lb
|
25 lb
|
25 lb
|
25 lb
|
35 lb
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Chain Size
|
|
1/4 "
|
1/4 "
|
1/4 "
|
1/4 "
|
3/8"
|
3/8"
|
|
Chain should be 100% of Boat Length
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Rope Size
|
|
3/8"
|
3/8"
|
3/8"
|
7/16"
|
7/16"
|
7/16"
|
|
Rope Length should be 200' or more
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
|
Anchoring
The more often that you sail, the more
likely that you will begin spending "nights
on the hook". And, the more
often that you anchor your boat, the more likely that you will have
"adventures" in the middle of the night. Usually, these adventures have little long
term effect on your sailing. The
important thing to remember when anchoring is that there are a few basic rules
to follow, such as:
1. As hard as it is to believe, make sure that
the anchor is securely shackled to the rest of the ground tackle before you
toss it over the side.
2. Equally hard to believe is to insure that the
other end of the anchor rode is securely tied to the boat somewhere.
3. Be sure to let out enough anchor line to
insure that the anchoring system will hold you at high tide where you want to stay overnight. Waking up tomorrow morning to find that
"the island has sunk during the night" is not the kind of adventure
that most of us want before breakfast.
and 4.
Make sure you'll have enough water under you at low tide.
We have already said that the anchor
system consists of the anchor, a length of chain, and the anchor rope. Each piece is securely shackled to the next,
and most of us like to make sure that the shackle bolt does not turn itself out
by using a wire to hold the bolt
from turning.
The
type of anchor, the length of chain, and the size and length of the rope are
all decisions that will vary from skipper to skipper and sailing area to
sailing area. In general, you can ask
other sailors in your area what kind of anchor they use and prefer. You'll probably find that a Danforth style is
the most popular. Danforth anchors are
relatively easy to stow and have acceptable holding power, pound for
pound. Instead of weight, the Danforth
anchor uses its ability to dig into the bottom to hold your boat. The length of chain provided in many
"safety & equipment kits" is often about six feet. This is OK for “lunch on the hook”; but if
you are anchoring overnight or if you have had a high wind or storm adventure,
you have probably increased the length of chain to equal to your boat's
length. Some skippers have even opted for
100% chain with no rope at all. Of
course, this will give you the best holding power and shock absorption; but, it
is a chore to weigh the anchor when you want to leave, and is quite a heavy bit
of ballast while sailing.
Many sailors have a rule of thumb
regarding the amount of anchor rope to set out when anchoring. The rule depends on the expected wind:
Light breezes - Depth of water
times four
Moderate breezes - Depth of
water times seven
Stormy conditions - Depth of
water times ten
This means that if you anchor in twenty
feet of water, you will want to deploy 80 feet of anchor line in light breezes,
and possibly more than 200 feet if stormy conditions are expected. Some skippers will deploy two anchors for
stormy conditions for extra holding power.
These are usually set out at about a 90 degree angle to each other. If you are worried about holding, you might
rig a “sentinel” – a weight deployed down the anchor rope on a shackle and
light line – to act as a shock absorber and extra weight to keep the anchor
stock parallel with the bottom. I have successfully
used one or two sash weights.
It
is handy to mark the anchor rope in regular intervals. I like 25 foot intervals. These lengths are easily divided into 100… so
I don’t need a calculator to determine how much rope to let out. Additionally, since Snickerdoodle is 25 feet long, I have 25’ of ¼” chain… so everything is in 25 foot intervals.
It
is better than nice to have an anchor roller on the bow. This roller allows the chain and rope to more
easily be let out and pulled back in. My
anchor roller has a loop above the actual roller to keep the rope and chain
from “jumping off” the roller.
Anchoring Steps –
First, Check your charts,
local knowledge, etc. to select where you want to anchor. Generally, I like to anchor in about 20 feet
of water (~3.5 fathoms). Determine how
much scope you want to let out on the anchor line…. Four to one for nice weather; seven to one
for moderate weather; and at least ten to one for stormy weather.
Second, Observe your selected
anchorage as you approach for other boats and their anchors, and other hazards.
Third, Once over your
selected anchorage spot, release the anchor.
When you feel the anchor touch the bottom, begin backing the boat up and
simultaneously pay out the anchor line until the required scope is out. Cleat the anchor line and continue backing
down till the anchor sets (digs in). If
the wind and waves allow, I like to back toward the shore so that I can be sure
the required scope still lets the boat float in enough water.
Finally, When the anchor
sets, shift the transmission into neutral and/or stop the engine.
One of the things I like to
do if I’m alone or with an inexperienced crew is to lay out all of the required
anchor rope in long parallel loops on deck before getting to the anchor spot
(called “faking” the line on deck). If I
need 80 feet of anchor rope for Snickerdoodle,
I’ll fake the anchor rope down the starboard side for 20 feet (about to my
primary winches… and then fake an another “loop” of rope down the port side to
the cockpit. I cleat off the anchor rope
to a bow cleat at the 80-foot mark.
Then, I’ll take a couple turns on the starboard primary winch and wrap
the loop around the cleat with the loop of rope at the 20-foot mark. I can then let the anchor chain pay out over
the bow roller and bring the anchor back to the cockpit (having the anchor rope
on the winch and cleat keeps the chain from pulling the rope off the deck
prematurely). I like to have the rope to
chain shackle just down from the bow roller so that there is only rope on the
roller and the anchor chain bows in the water below the boat. When I’m just about to the chosen anchor
spot, I throw the anchor out to the side of the boat and cast off the anchor
rope from the cleat and winch. The
anchor sinks and the anchor rope begins paying over the roller as I continue to
motor slowly toward shore. When all of
the anchor rope has gone over the roller, the bow cleat brings the rope taught
and the anchor digs in and sets… this pulls the boat around 180 degrees and you
are at anchor.
So, go out there and anchor your boat and enjoy an evening
on the hook.
