Thursday, September 26, 2013

Winterizing Your Boat Checklist

Winterize Your Boat Checklist



All of us who live in the inland Pacific Northwest must be aware of potential dangers that freezing weather may bring to our sailboats and prevent potential damage by winterizing our boats.  Whether your boat spends the winter on a trailer or in the water, you must winterize.  There are too many horror stories about boats sinking while in the slip …… or sinking when first launched in the spring.  Sinking is nearly the worst thing that can happen on your boat.
Water (freezing water) will do considerable damage. Freezing water can break thru hull valves, raw water strainers, engine blocks, fresh water systems, marine heads and porta-potties, and anything else that has water in it during the winter.
So, here is a typical check list of things to do aboard your boat to make sure that she’s ready for winter.
The first thing to do is to check the owner’s manuals for equipment aboard your boat.  Are there specific recommendations for winter conditions?
Next prepare a written checklist so that you will cover all the “bases”……  Here are some of the “bases”…
Clean out the boat.
Remove all electronic equipment and store it in a warm dry place.  Check your owner’s manual for info on how to store this gear.
Remove all sails, lines, anchors, fenders, pfd’s, bunk cushions, flares, fire extinguishers, carpets, etc.  Check and repair these over the winter.
Empty all lockers, especially food lockers.  Take all loose gear off the boat.
Securely prop open all locker doors, access hatches, bilge access and anything else that will improve air circulation.
Open and clean the ice box and/or refrigerator.
Drain all the water from the fresh water system.
For a fairly simple system, drain all the hoses and drain and clean the tanks.  Leave everything empty.
For more complicated systems with heaters and electric pumps you’ll need to empty all water, header and heater tanks, making sure that no water remains in the tanks below the outlet level.  Clean the tanks and wipe internally with a chlorine solution.
Make sure you disconnect the electrical supply to the heater tank before you drain it.
Drain all the water from the hoses and pumps – you may need to disconnect hoses at both ends to do this.
Reconnect the hoses ad bypass the water tank.  Pump pink, eco-friendly anti-freeze into the hoses and pumps to protect them from any residual water.
Check shower sump for water.  Sponge dry if necessary.
Drain and winterize the head.
Pump out the holding tank.  Flush the head with fresh water several times while emptying the holding tank.
Close the head intake seacock and romove the hose.  Sit the hose in a bucket of 50-50 eco-friendly (pink) anti-freeze and water.
Pump the head until all water in the bowl and hoses has been replaced by anti-freeze.  Replace the hose on the seacock.
Don’t open the seacock until next spring.
Winterize the batteries.
Remove the batteries to a warm dry place.  Keep them off the ground.
Fully charge the batteries before storage and recharge every month in storage.
Don’t leave the batteries connected to the charger.
Winterize your diesel inboard engine.
Fuel system
Add stabilizer/biocide to your fuel tank and fill the tank.  Read the instructions on the stabilizer container.
Change all fuel filters and drain the water separator.
Run the engine for 15 minutes to get stabilized fuel into all lines and injectors.
If already on the hard, run a water hose to the raw water intake to get anti-freeze into the engine.
The oil system
Drain the oil while the engine is still hot from the fuel circulation above.
Change the oil filters
Fill engine with clean oil
Drain the oil in the transmission if separate from the engine.  Refill with clean oil
The fresh water cooling system
Drain the fresh water cooling and heat exchanger system and replace the coolant with 50-50 pink anti-freeze
Winterize the raw water side as detailed below
Flush the raw water cooling system
Close the raw water seacock
Disconnect the hose on the outlet side of the raw water pump
Place the end of this hose into a large bucket.  Have a second bucket handy.
On the exhaust riser or muffler, disconnect the cooling water hose
Connect this hose to a water supply and back flush the raw water system
Collect the flushing water in the buckets and dispose of properly
Reconnect both hoses.
Replace the raw water with anti-freeze
Close the raw water seacock
Disconnect the hose from the seacock
Place the hose in a bucket of 50-50 mixture of pink anti-freeze and water
Start the engine and run it until pink anti-freeze is discharged from the exhaust
Turn off the engine and reconnect the hose to the seacock
Do not open the raw water seacock until next spring
Drain the anti-freeze from the muffler if you have a drain plug.  Reinstall this plug immediately
Remove the raw water impeller and store.  Tag the engine so you remember the impeller is not installed next spring
If you are already on the hard you can leave the seacock open and run a hose from the raw water intake to a bucket of anti-freeze mixture and proceed as above
Close the seacock afterwards
Sundry work
Spray fogging oil into the intake manifold and turn the engine over by hand.  Don’t use the starter motor.
Spray the inside of the ignition switch with WD-40 or CRC
Cover the engine with a waterproof cover to protect from any leaks above the engine (deck, cockpit, etc.)
Seal all air intakes, breather pipes, tank vents ad exhaust outlet with duct tape or plastic seals.
Winterize your gasoline inboard engine.
Follow the steps above regarding; The oil system, The fresh water cooling system, Flush the raw water cooling system, and Replace the raw water with anti-freeze
The fuel system
Start the engine and shut off the fuel supply
Spray fogging oil into the air intake while the engine is running
Run engine until it stops
Drain the gasoline tank and all gasoline lines.  Ethanol in modern fuel absorbs moisture, separates, and damages gaskets and rubber fittings.
Put the fuel into your car’s fuel tank
Sundry work
Spray the inside of the ignition switch with WD-40 or CRC
Cover the engine with a waterproof cover to protect for any leaks from above
Seal all air intakes, breather pipes, tank vents, and exhaust outlet with duct tape or plastic seals
Inspect fuel tanks, lines, pump and filters for leaks
Winterize your gasoline outboard engine.
Start the engine
Disconnect the fuel line at the engine and spray fogging oil into the carburetor air intake
Run the engine until it stops
Change the lower unit gear grease
Drain the gasoline tank and all gasoline lines.  Ethanol in modern fuel absorbs moisture, separates, and damages gaskets and rubber fittings.
Put the gasoline into your car’s fuel tank
Clean and inspect your boat
Internal clean
Remove all loose gear from the boat
Wash down all surfaces to remove any dirt or grease that will allow mold to grow
Scrub the ice box and/or refrigerator with a mild bleach solution
Clean out the interior lockers
Clean the bilge.  Scrub with soap and hot water.  Add pink anti-freeze to the bilge to stop any remaining water from freezing
External clean
Scrub or pressure wash the hull and deck
Clean hardware, mast and rigging to remove salt, dirt, and grime
Touch up any damaged varnish or paintwork
Lightly wax all fiberglass surfaces to protect over the winter
Inspect the hull
Inspect the hull for cracks, blisters or any stress cracks.  Repair as necessary
Inspect the deck for cracks.  Check for delamination at cracks and repair if required.
Install backing plates to hardware or stanchions showing signs of stress cracking before repairing
Inspect lifelines for signs of corrosion.  Replace if necessary
Inspect sundry systems
Inspect propane lines for damage.  Make sure they are well supported.
Close propane bottle and light the stove.  Allow the stove to go out.  Close off the supply at the stove.
Remove propane bottles from the boat  Seal the end of the propane line
Inspect all fuel supply lines for softness, brittleness or cracking
Inspect fuel fill line and fuel vents.  Check all joints for leaks.
Ensure all lines are well supported with clips or straps
Inspect and service all winches, mainsheet system, turning blocks and rope clutches
Lubricate the roller furling system if fitted
Inspect and service all seacocks
Inspect all hoses and hose clamps.  All hoses should be double clamped.  Replace hoses and/or clamps as necessary
Inspect all electrical connections.  Clean and reconnect if required.
Since I have shore power
Connect the 110 VAC dehumidifier
Connect the 40 Watt heat strip
Fill the two Dry-Z-Air dehumidifiers and place one in the galley and one in the head
I also fully tarp the cockpit and foredeck with blue tarps to keep the snow and rain off.
No doubt that this is an incomplete list……  add to or delete from this list for your own boat.  Remember that freezing water is the most dangerous winter hazard to your boat!!!

Wednesday, September 25, 2013


Hatchboard Precautions

One of the dangers of sailing in stronger winds is the chance that a really strong gust will overpower your boat and knock you over so far that water pours over the cockpit coamings and into the cockpit.  If your hatchboards are not in the companionway, water can them pour through the open companionway and into the cabin of the boat - - potentially sinking the boat.

 
An easy precaution to prevent this is to install quarter-inch barrel bolts on the lower two hatchboards.  Then drill a quarter-inch hole in the companionway molding so that the hatchboards can effectively be “locked in”.  With the hatchboards locked in, the chance of a knockdown sinking your boat is greatly reduced.

Try it - - this is an easy and effective modification.


Wednesday, September 18, 2013

Your Tired Old Mainsail




Your Tired Old Mainsail

One topic of discussion that I hear about all the time around the marina has to do with skippers having their boats overpowered to the point where the boat is no longer under control.  Frequently these discussions include graphic descriptions of water washing the ports (windows), rounding up violently, and so on.  As often as not, the skipper relating the story has an older 22 to 27-footer that is still sailing with a twenty or thirty year-old main sail.  The sail works okay on light wind days… but when the wind pipes up, the sail is so blown out and round that the sail develops too much sideways thrust instead of forward thrust and the boat tips excessively.  What are some options???



One option of course would be to buy a new mainsail.  And, that is probably the most efficient “fix” - - and this one will last longest.  Other options might be to significantly increase Cunningham and clew outhaul tension.  This tends to flatten the sail – but the older and more blown out the sail is, the less effective this second option becomes.

A third option might be to “pre-bend” the mast.  You do this by tightening the forward lower shrouds or by increasing tension on the backstay… or both.  If your boat has a pair of lower shrouds that angle forward to chainplates ahead of the upper shroud chainplates, it should be fairly easy to increase the tension on the forward shroud by simply turning the turnbuckle at the bottom of the shroud.  Do this evenly until the mast is bent in the middle about three or so inches.  The pre-bend will flatten the middle half of the sail and make the sail less powerful in the gusts.  If there are aft angled lower shrouds too, you will need to loosen those turnbuckles.  And, on many boats, if you increase the tension on the backstay, the mast will also bend in the middle and depower the mainsail.

Increasing the tension on the backstay also increases the tension on the forestay and helps the jib to keep it’s shape - - and not sag off to leeward in the gust - - again creating sideways instead of forward energy.

So, if you are not quite ready to buy a new mainsail, pre-bending the mast may help in the short run.

barnaclebillholcomb@gmail.com



Tuesday, September 3, 2013

Your Compass vs. Your Chart's Compass Rose

How accurate is the compass rose on your chart relative to the real world?  When was the last time that you checked your compass and verified this?

Toward the end of August this year, Kathy and I were motor-sailing Snickerdoodle from Sandpoint back to Bayview on Lake Pend Oreille, ID.  It is a "straight shot" from the Elliott Point light to the Granite Point light.  As we motored on a course of 188M (shown on my GPS chart plotter), I began to wonder how accurate the compass rose on the chart for Lake Pend Oreille  was (NOAA 18554) .  This chart was last updated in 1982.  

I drew my course on the chart and then walked my parallel rule from the course line to the chart's compass rose.  The compass rose indicated that I was on a course of 192M.  So, the chart indicated that I was on a course 4 degrees west of my actual heading.  How important is that???  Well, a four degree error amounts to 2/5 of a nm or 800 yards after an hour and a half of sailing at 5 nm/hr.  During daylight hours on a lake or other body of water that you are familiar with -- it's probably not a big deal.  But at night or on an unfamiliar body of water. 800 yards might be a critical error.  On Lake Pend Oreille, an 800 yard error to the east would be the difference between fetching up at the Granite Point light as planned or crashing ashore in Kilroy Bay.  I hate loud crunching sounds......

Next time you  are out, maybe it's time to verify the accuracy of your chart's compass rose as compared to what your compass or GPS are telling you about the course you are on.

barnaclebillholcomb@gmail.com