Take a close look at the sails on boats that are sailing close to you... and, to your own sails. Are the sails smooth and round? Or, are there creases and stretch marks? Are the sails way too round? Here are a few photos of old and inefficient sails that I've snapped over the years.
This main sail has many creases and folds. It cannot move the boat effectively.
This old genoa jib has been stretched out badly at its clew corner.
This mainsail has been stretched out way too much along the leech edge. Probably from too much sheet tension in strong breezes.
This mainsail is blown out. Notice how the forward edge of the battens creates an edge along the line between the battens?
This mainsail is old and soft. It won't drive the boat well at all.
Here's another well stretched mainsail.
Yes, these sails will move the boat... but not very well. And, they will probably heel the boat over much more in the puffs than a newer sail would.
These sails are nice and smooth and drive the boat along nicely - even in light breezes.
Monday, December 19, 2016
Wednesday, October 19, 2016
Full Hunter's Moon
I missed the Full Hunter's Moon on October 16 due to the cloudy/rainy weather. On the next evening (October 17) there was a break in the clouds around 10:30 which revealed a beautiful nearly full moon. I shot a few images that turned out pretty well..... I think......
BarnacleBillHolcomb@gmail.com
BarnacleBillHolcomb@gmail.com
Wednesday, September 28, 2016
Forestay Rigging Problems
Forestay Rigging
The forestay on our boats is a very important
part of the standing rigging. In
addition to giving a structure for the jib sail’s luff to be secured for better
sail shape, the forestay also serves the vital function of keeping the mast
from tipping over backward. Some would
call a mast tipping over backward a catastrophic mast failure. Generally though, the mast doesn’t fail on
its own… some part of the standing rig fails – and that allows the mast to
fail. What follows are a few photos that
I snapped of forestay connections at the boat end of the forestay. Notice that some folks are using rusty chains
and bolts/nuts, undersized shackles (the shackle pin is much smaller than the
hole in the stem fitting), bolts/nuts instead of clevis pins and cotter
pins/rings; and so on. Any of these “lash
ups” could certainly lead to the mast failing…
Of course, rust is a “dead give-away”… If you see rust, the
link is weakened and will fail when you most need the link to remain
sound. So, inspect your standing rig at
least annually to make sure that everything is up to “spec”……
Wednesday, August 24, 2016
Rigging Problems
In the September issue of the Hi Sailor newsletter, I discuss an experience I had this summer on a friend's boat where a shroud turnbuckle bolt broke while we were sailing. That issue of Hi Sailor will be sent out in a week. In the meantime, I noticed several boats at my marina that had bent turnbuckle bolts which are certainly weaker than designed... and can surely break at the least opportune time. Here are a few photos.
The bent lower bolt in these turnbuckles were probably damaged while the owner (or a previous owner) was raising the mast after trailering the boat somewhere. The toggle that joins the turnbuckle bolt and the chain-plate fitting probably got kinked and would not let the turnbuckle raise up into its normal sailing position. These bent turnbuckle bolts are not necessarily noticeable - especially with novice sailors. But, the bent turnbuckle bolts are dangerous and can lead to catastrophic mast failure.
Here are a few close-ups.
So, if you see that any of your turnbuckle bolts are bent like these, replace them at once. You do not have to replace the whole turnbuckle... many outfitters sell just the bolts themselves. Make sure that you get the correct thread (right-handed or left-handed) though. Trying to screw a left-handed bolt into a right-handed barrel won't work.
Barnacle Bill Holcomb
509 993 9321
BarnacleBillHolcomb@gmail.com
The bent lower bolt in these turnbuckles were probably damaged while the owner (or a previous owner) was raising the mast after trailering the boat somewhere. The toggle that joins the turnbuckle bolt and the chain-plate fitting probably got kinked and would not let the turnbuckle raise up into its normal sailing position. These bent turnbuckle bolts are not necessarily noticeable - especially with novice sailors. But, the bent turnbuckle bolts are dangerous and can lead to catastrophic mast failure.
Here are a few close-ups.
So, if you see that any of your turnbuckle bolts are bent like these, replace them at once. You do not have to replace the whole turnbuckle... many outfitters sell just the bolts themselves. Make sure that you get the correct thread (right-handed or left-handed) though. Trying to screw a left-handed bolt into a right-handed barrel won't work.
Barnacle Bill Holcomb
509 993 9321
BarnacleBillHolcomb@gmail.com
Wednesday, August 3, 2016
Freshwater System Problems
Leaky Fresh Water System
Just before leaving for our five-day cruise around Lake Pend
Oreille this year I partially filled the fresh water tank with around twelve
gallons of water. I had not previously
emptied the bleach from the tank that I’d put in last fall to ward off algae
growth – something that I do each fall.
So, the process was to put two or three gallons in and then pump the
tank dry. This took four times until the
bleach smell was gone. So, now we had
twelve gallons in the twenty-two gallon tank; and off we headed for Whiskey
Rock (our first destination).
Kathy and I arrived at the Whiskey Rock public dock at about
three-thirty and tied up on the inside (protected side from storms)… and began
to get ready for that evening’s festivities – including a pot-luck dinner. Kathy was busy down below in the galley and I
was helping boats that were arriving.
Four boats arrived after we did.
As Kathy proceeded to get out pot-luck contribution ready, she
used the fresh water pump several times.
After dinner, Kathy again was using the fresh water system –
but no water was coming out of the galley pump.
“I think we are out of water,” she said.
Of course, I felt that this was impossible since we really had not used
that much water.
The next morning Kathy and I awakened at about 4:30 and found
that there was a nice breeze blowing. We
had more than twenty miles to go to reach our next destination (Sandpoint, ID);
and decided that we would get a head start and leave now. We motored out of the bay with our Torqeedo
electric motor making almost no noise to waken the “residents” of the other
seven sailboats tied to the dock.
I got the sails up and we began a nice beam reach sail in 4 to
6 knots of breeze. Kathy made coffee and
later made breakfast. After breakfast,
Kathy noted that the pump in the galley still was not pumping water; AND that
the pump in the head also did not pump any water. It was hard to believe…
After arriving at the Boat Basin docks in Sandpoint, ID., I
filled about ten more gallons of fresh water into the tank through the deck
fill. The pumps now worked fine… and we
went to dinner at around five o’clock at a nice restaurant. When we got back, Kathy tried to use the
galley pump only to find that there was no water again.
Yikes!! - -
A year-and-a-half ago, the galley pump failed (after 30 years),
and I had replaced it. I began to wonder
if the water hose from the fresh water tank to the sink pump had come off the
pump and had drained the tank’s contents into the bilge. I got the bilge pump handle and we started
pumping. Gallons and gallons of water
began to be pumped out of the bilge; confirming my fears.
I didn’t want to remove the drawers and drawer frames from
below the galley sink while we were in Sandpoint… so, decided to wait till we
got home to Bayview in a couple days.
And, except for no water in the fresh water tank and a persistent
thunder/lightning/rain storm that lasted most of the next day, all went pretty
well for the trip back to Bayview.
The day after arriving back at Bayview, I removed the drawers
and drawer frames from below the galley sink so-as to be able to see if the
hose had truly fallen off of the pump.
The answer was no… everything was in tack and sound. So now the question was where was the water
coming from. My second thought was that
the water hose had somehow come off of the fitting on the fresh water tank. But, the tank is carefully placed in a space
beneath the starboard settee – just forward of the battery box. A cover that is screwed onto the settee
fiberglass with five sheet metal screws makes up the “lid” over the tank. And I have to say that the engineers and
builders of the Catalina 25 did a great job engineering and building the
space. There is hardly any excess room
in that compartment.
The hose from the fresh water tank to the sink pumps exits the
freshwater tank at its lowest and most aft position. There is less than two inches between the aft
end of the tank and the forward end of the battery box. In between these two “extremes” is a glassed
in piece of three-eighths plywood that holds the tank in place. The fitting is meant to fit through a cut-out
in the plywood. A two-inch hose connects
the fitting with a little “T” fitting.
Using a flashlight, I could see that the little two-inch hose was not
clamped to the fitting. I needed to
remove the tank to determine what was wrong.
Removing the tank meant detaching the filler hose and the vent
hose from their respective fittings… both held on with hose clamps. Evan after the hoses were detached… I still
had to unscrew the filler hose’s fitting so that the tank would come out of it’s
compartment.
Sure enough, the fitting was broken. I was able to loosen the clamp on the “T”
fitting and removed the two-inch hose.
The hose is clear, and I could see the broken end of the fitting still
in the hose.
Obviously, the fitting had failed at some time and finally the
hose had fallen off of the tank while Kathy and I were on our trip. The fix was to replace the broken fitting and
reattach the hose.
When I got back to Spokane, I went to “The House of Hose” and
purchased a new fitting and thirty inches of hose. I decided that there simply was not enough
room for my hands to attach the little two-inch hose after the tank was put
back in its compartment.
When I got back to Snickerdoodle, the new fitting went in
easily. BTW – I put Teflon “plumber’s”
tape on the threads for a good seal. The
thirty inches of hose attached and clamped in just a couple minutes. Then,
I had to wiggle the tank back into place. Thirty inches was more than enough; and I cut
off six inches of hose and attached/clamped the hose to the “T” fitting. Now, I applied the “plumber’s” tape to the
deck fill fitting and screwed it into place.
Finally attaching and clamping the deck fill hose and the vent hose in
place. After this was done, I filled
around three gallons of water into the tank through the deck fill and pumped
this water out of the tank with the galley and head pumps. Everything now works just right, and I replaced the lid and screws.
Lesson learned - - having the right tools made the job go much
easier. And having a diagram of the boat’s
plumbing system also helped me analyze what might be going wrong with the
system. I started trying to locate the
specific problem by doing the easiest things first.
BarnacleBillHolcomb@gmail.com
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