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Those of you who have followed this blog for a while may remember my discussion in September 2012 in which I talked about boats with roller furling jibs and the need to move the jib sheet lead car forward or aft as the jib sail is rolled in or deployed out.
One of the primary reasons for having a roller furling jib is convenience. The sail can easily and quickly be furled when coming into a mooring or dock. Of course, another reason for opting for the expense of a roller furling jib is safety. There is no need to "tap dance" around the foredeck anymore doing headsail changes. However, in talking with friends who have roller furling jibs, many discussed the need to leave the cockpit to move the lead blocks when either rolling the jib up partially (roller reefing) and/or letting the jib back out for more power. Side decks are often just as dangerous as the foredeck. So, what to do???
I got to thinking about the "barber hauler" that Kathy and I had on our Prindle 18 catamaran that would easily adjust the jib sheet leads and drew an idea for a "barber hauler" that would adjust jib sheet leads fore and aft on our monohulls with roller furling jibs.
Remember, we want to keep this simple and easy to use. The first step is to install a lead car with only a bail on the "T" track that you use for the jib sheet lead blocks.
If you use the holes in your toe rail, you can shackle a block there instead of using the "T" track.
Position the lead car just forward of the spot that you would use for the jib sheet lead block if you moved the lead block forward.
Next, lead the jib sheets (both individually) through the single blocks with becket. (One on each side of the boat)
Now, secure (a bowline works here) a length of line from the becket through the bail on the lead car. And then back to a cleat that you have positioned near the winch on the coaming. Make sure that the sheets and the adjustment line are led fairly. Do this for both port and starboard sheets.
When you want to furl the jib on it's roller, first pull the adjustment line to position the block near the lead car (loosening the sheets will make this easier). Roll the jib up with it's furling line to the desired size; and sheet in appropriately. The block near the lead car will pull the sheet down to the proper angle for good sheeting. Easy, peezy...
I love fall sailing. Nice weather, good breezes, most of the crowds have gone home for the year. The only problem is that staying overnight on Snickerdoodle can be uncomfortably chilly. Many years ago though I found out a secret for keeping the cabin warm on cool evenings... even if you have a small boat and there's no room for a Dickenson cabin heater that is fueled either by propane or solid fuel.
A thick clay flower pot that you tip upside-down over a burner on your stove works quite well. Keep the heat control at low to medium and as the pot heats up it will radiate warmth throughout the cabin. My Origo stove is alcohol fueled and each burner puts out around 5,000 BTU's. The flower pot spreads the warmth. Make sure your pot is clay not plastic.
If you are concerned that the open flame might break your flower pot, move the pot holders on the stove closer together and put the flower pot on top of the holders. They will raise the flower pot up an inch or two so that some of the direct heat escapes.
Don't forget that the pot will get hot. So, use pot holders to move it after you turn off the burner. Of course, a flower pot over both burners will double the heat.
This is a nice toasty solution for those of us with small boats that do not have wall mounted cabin heaters. Try it out. I think you will like the warm cabin results.
Barnacle Bill Holcomb
barnaclebillholcomb@gmail.com
509 993 3214
