Ethenol In Your Fuel

Ethanol Fuel:  This spring and summer (more than any other that I can remember) there have been many sailors at Bayview, Idaho and elsewhere that have experienced engine problems with their outboards.  It happened to me this spring with my six-year old Mercury 8hp – electric start.  I could get the engine started; but, as soon as I’d throttle back so-as to shift into forward or reverse the engine would hardly run and often died.  Finally, I had the engine die as I idled up the slip row toward Snickerdoodle’s slip.  Fortunately, I had enough way on to drift into the slip, jump to the dock, and tie up.  I drove the car over to MacDonald’s Resort and talked with Gary MacDonald.  He suspected that the ethanol in the gas had “gunked” up the carburetor.  I went back to Snickerdoodle and checked the in-line fuel filter in the engine.  Sure enough, it, indeed, had little black flecks of “stuff” in it.  I replaced the filter… but the low speed problems continued.  Finally, I asked Gary to see if his techs could fix the carburetor.  They worked on the engine (blew out the carb) during the following week and the engine did run marginally better… but not as well as it really should.

Meantime, Kathy and I were in Seattle and I went over to Freemont (near Gas Works Park) and visited Fisheries Supply.  At Fisheries I bought a small Racor fuel/water filter (Racor 025RAC02).  This little filter is perfect for small outboard engines.  It has a 10 micron filter (replaceable) and filters both sediment and water out of the fuel.  The filter element is housed in a clear bowl so I can see if there is sediment building up and/or if water is being separated.  I installed the filter in the fuel locker with approximately half of the fuel line on the engine side of the filter and the other half of the fuel line to the fuel tank.  I’m glad that I installed the filter… it’s something that I should have done years ago.  But, the engine still didn’t perform as well as it should at low speed - idle.

I took the engine off Snickerdoodle and brought it in to Spokane Outboard in the Spokane valley.  There the carburetor was taken off the engine and completely disassembled.  The parts were placed in a special “sonic” bath that completely cleans everything of anything.  The carb was then reassembled and installed back on the engine.  The outboard now starts and runs much better - - I haven’t had to drift back into the slip……

I did some research regarding ethanol in gasoline and found some interesting facts.  Here’s a link to the Mercury outboard engine site describing ethanol and its problems.  http://www.mercurymarine.com/service-and-support/storage-and-maintenance/faqs/mercruiser/?category=ethanol

The problems are numerous:

First, ethanol is a strong solvent that can erode and degrade fuel lines and carburetor components – especially in older engines that were produced before ethanol was being added to gasoline.  Ethanol can also scour any shellac buildup from the inside of the carburetor.  Both conditions can put little bits of “crud” in the jets and plug them partially or completely.  Newer engines are more compatible with this condition than older engines.  But the newer engines still have similar problems over the “long run”.

Second, ethanol is hydroscopic - - it attracts water out of the surrounding air.  The longer the ethanol sits unused, the more water it can put into your fuel.  Of course, water doesn’t burn well in your engine.

Also, if significant amounts of water are present in a fuel tank with gasoline that contains ethanol, the water will be drawn into the fuel until the saturation point is reached for the three-component mixture of water + gasoline + ethanol. Beyond this saturation level of water, phase separation could cause most of the ethanol and water to separate from the gasoline and sink to the bottom of the tank, leaving gasoline with a significantly reduced level of ethanol in the gasoline at the top of the tank. If the quantity of water and ethanol is large enough to reach the fuel inlet, it could be pumped directly to the engine and cause significant problems. Even if the ethanol/water at the bottom of the tank is not drawn into the fuel inlet, the reduced ethanol level of the fuel reduces the octane rating by as much as 3 octane numbers, which could result in engine performance problems.

The level at which phase separation can occur is determined by a number of variables, including the amount of ethanol, the composition of the fuel, the temperature of the environment and the presence of contaminants. It is very important (A) that the system is inspected for significant quantities of water in the tank before using gasoline with ethanol and (B) to limit exposure of the fuel tank to excess water. If phase separation has occurred, it is necessary to completely remove all free water from the system and replace the fuel before continuing operation. Otherwise, engine problems could occur.

Third, ethanol has about 30% less heating value compared to gasoline.  So, the ethanol actually makes the gasoline less effective when it burns in the engine… leading to poorer gas mileage and performance at both the top end and at lower engine speeds.

Forth, most outboard manufacturers state that their engines work with 10% ethanol blended gasoline.  However, all of the manufacturers caution that 15% or 20% ethanol blends should NOT be used in their outboard engines.  The problem is that many states are already mandating that 15% ethanol blends replace 10%.  If you are buying gasoline for your outboard engine at the gas station be aware of the blend.  If there is 15% or more ethanol, don’t buy it for your boat’s engine.  The cheaper price at the “pump” will be a lot more expensive when you see the repair mechanic.

Fifth, all of the manufacturers recommend adding an ethanol stabilizer to every tank of gas.  Some marinas add the stabilizer to their marine gas as a matter of doing business (MacDonald’s Resort at Bayview, Idaho does this)… other’s do not.  I have a bottle of ethanol stabilizer on Snickerdoodle now and use it if I cannot guarantee that the gas is already treated.  It seems that “marginally” too much stabilizer doesn’t have negative results.

Sixth, just about every mechanic recommends unplugging the gas line from the engine and running the engine until the fuel is burned out of the carb.  This is especially so if the engine is to sit for more than a week or two.  Many mechanics also recommend emptying the fuel tank as part of winter layup (put the fuel in your car’s tank), or anytime the engine won’t be used for eight weeks or more.  Start with new gasoline next spring.

This isn’t a pretty picture at all.  But, for those of us with outboard engines, fore-warned is probably fore-armed.

Anchoring Steps

Anchoring Steps –

First, Check your charts, local knowledge, etc. to select where you want to anchor.  Generally, I like to anchor in about 21 feet of water (3.5 fathoms).  Determine how much scope you want to let out on the anchor line….  Four to one for nice weather; seven to one for moderate weather; and at least ten to one for stormy weather.

Second, Observe your selected anchorage as you approach for other boats and their anchors, and other hazards.

Third, Once over your selected anchorage spot, release the anchor.  When you feel the anchor touch the bottom, begin backing the boat up and simultaneously pay out the anchor line until the required scope is out.  Cleat the anchor line and continue backing down till the anchor sets (digs in).  If the wind and waves allow, I like to back toward the shore so that I can be sure the required scope still lets the boat float in enough water.

Finally, When the anchor sets, shift the transmission into neutral and/or stop the engine.

One of the things I like to do if I’m alone or with an inexperienced crew is to lay out all of the required anchor rope in long parallel loops on deck before getting to the anchor spot (called “faking” the line on deck).  If I need 80 feet of anchor rope for Snickerdoodle, I’ll fake the anchor rope down the starboard side for 20 feet (about to my primary winches… and then fake an another “loop” of rope down the port side to the cockpit.  I cleat off the anchor rope to a bow cleat at the 80-foot mark.  Then, I’ll take a couple turns on the starboard primary winch and wrap the loop around the cleat with the loop of rope at the 20-foot mark.  I can then let the anchor chain pay out over the bow roller and bring the anchor back to the cockpit (having the anchor rope on the winch and cleat keeps the chain from pulling the rope off the deck prematurely).  I like to have the rope to chain shackle just down from the bow roller so that there is only rope on the roller and the anchor chain bows in the water below the boat.  When I’m just about to the chosen anchor spot, I throw the anchor out to the side of the boat and cast off the anchor rope from the cleat and winch.  The anchor sinks and the anchor rope begins paying over the roller as I continue to motor slowly toward shore.  When all of the anchor rope has gone over the roller, the bow cleat brings the rope taught and the anchor digs in and sets… this pulls the boat around 180 degrees and you are at anchor.

Poor Man's Roller Furling Jib

 

 I like to have the best jib set for the wind that I'm sailing in.  Consequently, I have several jib sails - but no roller furler.  However, I can still get the jib down quickly and easily with a dousing line.  The dousing line is a 1/4" line that runs from the cockpit through a block that is shackled to the stem fitting and then the line is secured to the head of whichever jib I'm using.  When I cast off the jib halyard, I can pull the dousing line a very quickly have the jib down and secured to the foredeck.  I don't have to run up to the foredeck to do this because both the dousing line and my jib halyard are both lead to the cockpit.  If you'd like a drawing of this setup, email me or comment below.

BTW: the above picture was taken at the new dock where the Clark Fork River enters Lake Pend Oreille.  Beautiful isn't it???

Check Those Thru-Hull Fittings and Hose Clamps

With all the rainy weather we’ve been experiencing, it’s got me thinking about thru-hull fittings and hose clamps.  Everyone knows that the hoses attached to thru-hull fittings need to be securely clamped with stainless steel hose clamps.  Preferably with two clamps at each end of the hose to help ensure that the hose does not come off the fitting. 

Additionally, I read a while back that the hose clamps should “face” in opposite directions.  And, that the hose and clamps should be inspected in the spring and fall and tightened as necessary during those inspections.

I know that I checked Snickerdoodle’s clamps last fall… but have not done so yet this year.  Guess what my first job is next time I’m aboard???



Here is a photo of the jib tack pendant that I've made for Snickerdoodle.  The pendant is about 14 inches long - so it raises the jib's foot up.  Looking under the jib's foot to see if there is traffic to leeward is much easier with the pendant.
The pendant has a loop (with a thimble) at both ends; and there is a halyard shackle secured to the upper loop.  The lower loop is shackled (with the tack snap shackle) to the stem fitting.  I've got a jib hank near the upper loop and the hank secures the pendant to the forestay above the forestay's turnbuckle.
Simply secure the jib tack corner to the halyard shackle on the upper loop and you'll have great visibility to leeward.
Give it a try - - I think you'll like it.

Why Sailing Lessons Are Worth It

Why Sailing Lessons Are Worth It…

          I started sailing when my younger brother and I bought a sixteen foot long, wooden construction, Comet class sloop in about 1962.  Neither one of us knew anything about sailing… but we were convinced that it looked like fun.  I think we’d seen maybe two sailboats in our whole lives … except for the sailing ship in Walt Disney’s film “Treasure Island”.  We bought the Comet and loaded it in the back of my 1952 Chevy half-ton flat-bed pickup truck and took it home to our folk’s home.  We unloaded the boat onto three bales of straw and proceeded to try to figure out where everything went.  After nearly two weeks of trial-and-error, Bob and I had pretty well figured out where all the ropes, cables, pulleys, and other paraphernalia went.  We still weren’t sure how to sail… but on a Friday evening we loaded the Comet back into the pickup and drove two hours to Priest Lake and launched the boat at a ramp about two-and-a-half miles from our folks summer home.  There wasn’t much wind… only a slight (very slight) land breeze.  It took us till after midnight to reach our folks place.

          At that time, I had never seen a non-fiction sailing book that explained anything about sailboats or sailing them.  Oh yes, I’d tried to read Hornblower with all the buntlines, clewlines, t’galln’t sails and so forth…Which did nothing to help us learn anything about actually sailing the Comet.  We taught ourselves how to sail… again by trial-and-error… quite a bit of error…… We quickly learned quite a lot about running backstays.  By the fall of 1962, we could usually get the boat to go where we wanted – AND get back to the folks place.  We knew that flapping sails (luffing) didn’t move the boat very well.  We also found out that we needed to zig-zag the boat (tacking) to arrive successfully at an upwind destination.  The mainsail didn’t have reef points (we didn’t know what that word meant); so, we had several adventures when the breeze piped up and the boat was overpowered.

          Toward the end of summer 1963 I was in a bookstore and saw the first actual “how to sail” book I’d ever seen.  It was “Sailing” by Peter Heaton.  Bob and I devoured it… then devoured it again.  Finally there was actual expert information about how to sail a boat… never-mind that most of the boats featured in the book were twenty-five to thirty-five foot long British cruising sailboats.  With that book, we were able to finally figure out things that previously we had no clew about.  There were some language problems though…  We read that in a small sailboat something called a nylon hiking strap might be helpful to keep the boat from capsizing.  There were no illustrations of these hiking straps – only a description of a two-inch wide nylon strap (about ten feet long) secured to the boat.  So we bought two lengths of nylon strap, sewed a loop into one end and secured a snap hook there.  When the wind piped up, we’d hook the strap to the shroud chainplates and lean back holding onto the strap for dear life.  It was years later that we found out that the hiking straps were for looping your feet under so-as to hike out more efficiently.

          It is a wonder that we didn’t give up on sailing for all the mistakes we made.

          Take it from me… trying to teach yourself to sail is doing it the hard way.  Especially now when there are so many good places to have an expert teach you the best, safest way.  Learning little things like the fact that most sailboats have two sails – a mainsail and a jib sail – and that it’s probably not the best idea when the wind increases above the velocity that you feel comfortable with to take down (douse) one or the other; and sail with only one sail up… is important.  Why not try sailing in stronger breezes with only one sail up?  The sail plan is designed to be in balance with both sails.  If you take the jib sail down, the main sail will act like the feather on a wind vane; and continually try to swing the boat so that the bow points right at the wind’s eye.  If you take the mainsail down, the reverse happens… the jib sail pulls the bow continuously downwind.  Either situation makes controlling the boat's course more difficult.  What should you do when the wind pipes up?  Reef the mainsail; change the jib sail down to a smaller jib; or both.  Of course, doing either of these choices may not be intuitive… dangerous mistakes might occur… so, often a novice sailor will simply take down both sails all the way and start the engine to motor home.  For my money, I’d rather keep on sailing.  Besides, sailing in stronger breezes with a reefed main and/or a smaller jib is just as easy and as much fun as sailing in lighter breezes with “full up” sails.

          Why not get a good sailing book or video and teach yourself to sail like I did?  Well, some folks can easily and successfully do this.  But many novice sailors may be intimidated by all the “lingo”; most of the pictures may not make any sense since you’re not actually on the water; and there’s no one there to explain and answer questions.

          What if you’ve already bought a sailboat?  Learning to sail on the boats provided by the sailing school will be easily transferred to your own boat.  How sails are trimmed to get the boat to move is pretty much the same on all modern sailboats.  So, enrolling in a class will work perfectly well for anyone who has already bought their sailboat.

          What is the difference between class lessons and private lessons?  First of all, there is probably going to be a price difference… with private lessons costing more than enrolling in a class.  Of course, if you hire an instructor for a private lesson, you might want to use your own boat and have as part of the lesson having the instructor “go over” your boat and suggest changes that could/should be made.  One consideration for the private vs. class decision is your time frame to learn how to sail.  I have found over the years that students learn more in a three-hour private lesson than they often do in ten or twelve hours in a class.  The one-on-one nature of private lessons is the reason.  Another good reason for a private lesson is that you might already have some sailing knowledge/skill and would like to start where you are, rather than go back to the beginning with the rest of the students.

If you are buying your first sailboat, why the guy selling you the boat isn’t probably the best teacher:  One obvious reason is that he may be selling the boat because he never learned how to sail it in the first place.  The seller might not really know much more than you do… now that’s a scary thought…  Another reason might be because the seller isn’t interested in that boat anymore.  Your “lesson” might be short ‘n sweet; with little to no actual learning going on.  The seller might know how to sail but doesn’t know how to teach sailing… another scary thought.  You might be hearing and observing poorer ways to get the boat to sail.  When you ask about reefing the mainsail… the seller says that “this boat is so stable, I’ve never had to reef.”  Balderdash!!!  What the seller has really just said is, “I really don’t know how to reef… so, never did.  I always just took the sails down when it got windy and motored back to the marina.”

The seller might not want to spend much time with you after the sale has been made because there is some defect in the boat that he doesn’t want to be around when you find it.  So, your “lesson” – again – will probably be a short one.  Or, the seller might be feeling really bad about having to sell the boat.  There might be a marital situation or a health situation that requires the boat sale.  This might be the worst day of the seller’s life.  You probably won’t get a great lesson.  And, of course, there’s the great possibility that the seller has already purchased his “new” sailboat; and really wants to be on it and having all the fun of that boat.

A series of classes or private lessons are probably much better at assuring you that your new boat will be enjoyable.  The instructor is not side-tracked and can focus on the class and student learning.

          Many sailors say that they really started to learn to sail when they started to race – either on their sailboat or as crew on someone else’s boat.  However, just the thought of racing – of getting out there with all those other boats so close together – of possibly embarrassing yourself – of possibly running into another boat – is terrifying.  Racing, though, is a very efficient way to learn sailing.  All the boats have to sail a specified course.  The boats are relatively close together, so a novice sailor can observe more proficient sailors and how they handle their boats and sails.  Observation leads to imitation… and perhaps learning better boat/sail handling skills.

Some yacht (sailing) clubs offer - for a small fee above the race entry fee -  programs in which experienced racers will crew with novice sailors in three of four races to help accelerate the learning curve.  This is a great way for novice sailors to start racing, learn huge amounts about sailing, and accelerate their learning and boat handling skills.  The experienced racers – while generally not instructors in the strictest sense – can show skills and techniques to the novice sailors.  It is usually lots of fun.

Talking to most experienced sailors (instructors and students alike), they agree that you will learn more in a couple three hour (on-the-water) private lessons than you will in ten or twelve hours of group/class lessons.  The instructor is able to concentrate on you and your boat (if you’ve already bought one).  One tip, before signing up for (paying for) private lessons, check out the qualifications of the instructor.  How many years has the instructor been sailing – what types of boats?  How many years has the instructor been teaching sailing?  Does the instructor have any references or testimonials from former students?

There is always more to learn.  In nearly fifty years of sailing, sailboat racing, and teaching sailing…… I’m still learning and finding out new things about boats and how they use the wind to go from one place to another.  Barnacle Bill Holcomb 

Drifter Jibs

Imagine a beautiful summer day… blue sky, big puffy white clouds, light breeze of around 3 or 4 knots, with puffs to about 6.  You are cruising along on your sailboat with a full mainsail and a 135% genoa jib (possibly part of a roller furling system).  Your boat is making headway at about 2 to 2.5 knots.  Not great – but it’s a beautiful day……

How’d you like to have a way to be sailing in those same breezes and be able to attain 60% increase in boat-speed?  Well, there is a solution… an easy one… and it’s called a drifter jib. 

A drifter jib is not a cruising spinnaker.  It is a genoa cut jib sail that is used just like a “normal” jib… but this sail is made of 1.5 oz. nylon spinnaker cloth instead of Dacron or some other sail cloth.  This sail is also the largest jib sail that you’ll have on your boat.  Mine – for Snickerdoodle – is a 155% genoa.  And, because it’s nylon, Kathy designed the colors to look like an American flag – stars ‘n stripes.

Because it’s 155% (some skippers have drifters as large as 170%) it’s very good on all points of sail.  Because it’s made of 1.5 oz nylon, the lightest breeze fills this sail and drives the boat.  Add some 5mm or 6mm diameter line for ultra lightweight sheets and you’ll have a real performer.  Best of all, the drifter is sailed just like you would any other jib-sail… ie. The sail tacks back and forth between the mast and fore-stay.  Sheet in for close hauled, ease the sheets out for reaching or running (wing ‘n wind is a blast).

You’ll use the drifter in breezes up to about 7 or 8 knots… tops!!  In breezes stronger than that you’ll want to shift to a sail with heavier sailcloth to prevent blowing out the drifter.

My drifter has a 3/8” polypro line for a luff bolt rope.  The polypro line stretches like crazy and allows me to easily alter the luff tension with the jib halyard tension; and move the max draft around on the sail to match with wind velocity.  My drifter hanks onto the fore stay with 3/8” nylon straps and snaps.  These work fine in the intended light winds.

If you have a roller furler, it would be easy to simply not hank the sail’s luff to the fore stay and set the drifter “flying”.  You could use a second jib halyard or even the spinnaker halyard to hoist this sail.  Putting tension on the halyard (stretching the bolt rope) will keep this jib’s luff where you want it.

I sailed last Sunday afternoon in breezes 5 to 7 (puffs to ~8 knots).  The main was full up and the drifter was working perfectly.  My boat-speed was between 4.5 and 5 knots for more than two hours.  And, we passed every other boat on the water except for a J80 with it’s spinnaker flying.

So, if you want some great light wind sailing, consider getting a drifter jib for your boat too.