More About Heavy Weather Sailing

More Heavy Weather Sailing

Heavy weather does not necessarily mean hurricane force winds… although a hurricane would be heavy weather in anyone’s description.  Heavy weather though has more to do with experience and seamanship skills than simply the state of the wind and water.  Inexperienced sailors and their crew might describe a day with breezes in the ten to fifteen knot range to be extreme; while more experienced skippers and crews would relish in this same wind.  Heavy weather occurs when the skipper and crew cannot control the boat any more and it seems like the wind and waves are making the boat do unexpected and unpleasant things.

One of the first unexpected and unpleasant things is when the boat suddenly heels over - - accompanied by the sound of lots of stuff inside the cabin crashing off of shelves, tables, counters, etc.  This first unexpected and unpleasant happening makes a big mess inside the boat.  It also reinforces the old sailor’s adage that everything should have its place and be in its place.  Securing the interior of the boat is one of the first things to do when heavy weather conditions are expected.  John Rousmaniere once expressed the opinion that a pound of butter or a carton of cottage cheese could become dangerous missiles if left unattended during rough weather.  I’ve never been hit by a carton of cottage cheese, but don’t want to either.  Hence, my intent to stow everything below decks when strong wind and waves are on the way.

Likewise, equipment on deck should be made ready for heavy weather too.  The jacklines should be rigged.  These are strong lines that are secured along both side decks.  The jacklines extend from the cockpit to the bow pulpit.  On Snickerdoodle, I use a length of one-inch nylon strap.  There is an eight-inch loop sewn into both ends of the strap.  I secure one end of the jackline to the port aft mooring cleat; then lead the other end forward on the port side deck and through the hole in both bow mooring cleats; then aft along the starboard side deck to the starboard aft mooring cleat – where that end is secured.  I secure each end with a mountain climbing carabiner.    The reason I like to use the one-inch nylon strap is that it lies flat on the deck and will not roll if stepped on.  Spare sheets or even stainless steel cable can also be used for jacklines… but being round, these will both roll underfoot leading to a possible swim… just what you don’t want in heavy weather conditions.

With the jacklines ready, it is easy to snap your safety harness’ tether to the jackline.  When you do this, you are effectively tethered to your boat.  This makes going forward much safer.  BTW:  My safety harness has a built-in inflatable PFD.  So, if I should go swimming, I’ll already have my life jacket on.  If you see me out sailing, you will notice that I have this safety harness/PFD on just about anytime except when the wind is very light.

The next thing to get ready is the reefing lines for the mainsail - - if these are not already rigged and ready for use.  If the reefing lines are ready (Snickerdoodle is always rigged with the mainsail reefing lines ready), inspect them to insure that you know which line to engage, and in what sequence while reefing.   Now is probably an opportune time to get the storm jib or small working jib ready to rig.  You might not need these, but it’s always good to have them close at hand just in case.  I often hoist my 135% jib sail for winds in the teens.  This sail has a fifteen-inch pendant on the tack corner to get the sail’s foot up and off the deck.  The sail won’t catch and hold water that might come aboard over the bow and offers much better visibility forward.  My 135% jib also has reef points about thirty-inches up from its foot.  Reefing this sail reduces it to about 100%... so, a nice intermediate size prior to changing down to a really smaller jib sail.  There is a block and downhaul line secured to the stem fitting that I use to pull the reef tack down to its correct height above the stem fitting.   This tack downhaul line leads back to the cockpit so that no one has to go forward to reef the jib.  A second set of jib sheets are secured to the reef clew point and run through the jib lead blocks on both sides of the boat.  I generally don’t move the lead block when I reef this sail.  The reason is that the position that is best for the sail when it is fully raised will put additional horizontal tension on the foot of the sail when it is reefed.  This horizontal tension will allow the upper third of the sail to twist off in the gusts and spill wind (reducing heeling and rounding up).

 

 

The above picture of Snickerdoodle clearly shows the two sets of reef points in the mainsail AND the reef points in my 135% jib sail.  It looks like it’s just about time to engage one or the other.

If you don’t have a roller furling jib, you might consider sending a working jib (110% to 135%) to your favorite sail loft this winter and asking them to add reef points in that sail for you.  This should cost around $100 to $150.  It’s cheap insurance for breezy days.

What are the signs that it’s time to reef the main and/or change down the jib?  Of course the old sailor’s saying, “If you think it might be time to reef, it is.” is a pretty good saying.  Some people say, “If you think it might be time to reef, it WAS - - thirty minutes ago.”  But what are the things that should clew you in that it’s time to reef the main and/or shorten the jib?  One sure sign is if you see other sailboats with their mainsails already reefed and/or they are flying small jibs.  Another sign is if there are a lot of whitecap waves… especially to windward (take another look at the first photo).  A third sign is that you and/OR your crew are uncomfortable with the angle of heel… especially in the gusts.  Also, if you and/or your crew are getting fatigued, cold, or sick.  Along with this, it seems like the gusts are coming more frequently.  Of course, if the boat is uncontrollable or difficult to steer, it’s time to reef the main and/or shorten the jib.  Certainly, if you are digging in the lee rail and washing the windows, it was time a while ago.  A really effective clew is to watch the sailboats upwind from you.  If you see them with their rails down and at extreme angles of heel, it’s time NOW to reef your boat and/or shorten the jib… before the strong winds reach your boat.

As you reef the main and/or shorten the jib, remember that it is best if you can keep a balance between the mainsail and the jib.  It is important to keep the sail's center of effort at about the same place relative to the boat's center of lateral plane (effectively the keel).  Keeping things balanced between the mainsail and jib will give the tiller the right feel and make the boat much easier to steer - - even in the gusts.

What’s the question of the day?  When was the last time that you practiced reefing the mainsail and practiced changing down to a smaller jib sail on a nice day with breezes in the five to ten range?  This exercise will train you and your crew to know what to do, how to do it, and to be ready when the wind pipes up.

What is the second question of the day?  When was the last time you jumped in the water wearing your inflatable PFD to make sure that the life jacket actually inflated?  Those little CO2 cartages are pretty inexpensive.  So, once a year or so, make sure that the PFD will really work......